England 2010 - Week One
Aug. 3rd, 2010 03:48 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
gilda_eliseFinally, there was time to sit and work my way through all the pictures, pamphlets, books, postcards and other sundry paraphernalia I bought in order to write up my travel 'report' on "What I did on my summer vacation."
(not dial-up friendly)
June 22nd - The beginning
It was the trip that almost wasn't. I've always made a habit of scheduling connecting flights at least three hours apart. I'd much rather have to spend extra time at an airport than worry about missing a flight. So when my flight from Grand Rapids to Chicago was cancelled and I was rebooked on a later flight, one only two hours before my flight to London, I wasn't too concerned. Two hours should be enough, right?
It would have been. But sitting at my gate at the GR airport, I looked up and noticed that my flight out was now marked as 40 minutes late. There was no way I could have got from one terminal to another, while having to pass through security again, in a little over one hour. Luckily, the woman at the counter was willing to listen to my problem and managed to get me on a flight leaving in five minutes.
Good thing, too, because, arriving in Chicago, I wasn't even sure what terminal to go to next. My ticket had said terminal 5, but the flight attendant had said terminal 3. I took a chance with 5 and made my plane in plenty of time, even with the security line being quite long. The mix-up turned out to be because, not being on my original flight out of GR, the one I did take was filled with people going to London via Northwest, not BA.
June 23rd - Off to Worcester
Anyway, the flight was smooth, the food was decent and I watched two movies I'd been meaning to see. At 7AM London time we touched down at Heathrow. I passed through Immigrations and customs to find Anne, my friend and fellow K/Ser, waiting.
Since we would be borrowing her parents' car, hers being in the shop, we took a train to Paddington Station (where, of course, I bought a Paddington bear,) then changed over to one going to Worcester. We were picked up at the station by Anne's brother Neal (who had brought his parents' car over to his house.) Neal's home is at the outskirts of Worcester, a simply lovely old manor house converted into three dwellings.
After settling in, we took Neal's dog, Nellie, for a walk out to a horse pasture. I was missing my two already and having a dog around, at least for a few days, helped a lot.
Nellie waits at the horse pasture gate
I'd picked Worcester because it seemed to be centrally located between Sudely Castle, Tewkesbury Abbey and Ludlow Castle. That it just happened to be where Anne's brother lives was a happy coincidence.
June 24th - Sudely Castle and Tewkesbury Abbey
Our first day out began with a visit to Sudely Castle. It took awhile to get there as we decided to use Anne's GPS, not realizing until a half hour later that it was taking us to London (Anne had accidentally set it for home.) But we eventually figured it out and managed to find our way to the castle.
Sudely Castle
Sudely is best known as the home of Catherine Parr after Henry VIII's death and they had the costumes there from "The Tudors" of Henry and all his wives in the part of the castle that's open to the public (part is still a residence.) But my interest was more in the ruins of the Banqueting Hall, built during Richard III's reign.
The Banqueting Hall at Sudely Castle
Richard had held the castle for nine years as Duke of Gloucester, using it as his base during the battle of Tewkesbury but later traded it to his brother, Edward IV, for Richmond Castle, perhaps because Richmond was closer to his northern estates. In any event, it would revert to him when he took the throne after his brother's death.
Behind the castle is St Mary's Church, Catherine Parr's burial place. She died giving birth to a daughter, a year and a half after Henry's death. Her husband, Thomas Seymour, would eventually lose his head when he tried to force the marriage of Edward V to Lady Jane Grey. Nothing is known of his and Catherine's daughter's fate.
Catherine Parr's tomb at St Mary's Church
From there, we proceeded to Tewkesbury Abbey.
Tewkesbury Abbey
It really is a beautiful place. And, unlike so many other places I saw, it's all still complete. George of Clarence (Richard III's older brother,) and his wife are buried there. "False, fleeting, perjur'd Clarence," is said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey after being found guiltly of treason against his older brother, Edward IV.
June 25 - Ludlow Castle, St Lawrence's Church and Croft Castle
The next day saw us on our way to Ludlow Castle.
Anne in front of the Keep at Ludlow Castle
I think as far as I'm concerned Ludlow is cursed. The first time I was there (two years ago,) we managed to get there only half hour before it was to close. This time, they had a production of "The Tempest" set up. While you could walk by most of the different parts of the castle, the tents set up for dressing rooms, laundry rooms, lights, etc, not to mention the large and obtrusive stage, pretty much killed the mood, destroying the castle's atmosphere. Ah well, maybe next time.
Still, it's a lovely place, with quite a bit of it still standing. Because our time there was shorter than it would have normally been, we had time to check out the town. Quaint, with much of its older part still standing, it makes for a great tourist stop. We walked through the outdoor selling fare that was set up outside the castle, then perused several shops as we made our way through the center of town. Eventually, we found ourselves at the Parish Church of St Lawrence. In its gorgeous west window I found a Ricardian connection. At the bottom were the figures of Richard, Duke of York (Richard's father,) and Edward IV (Richard's brother.) Across from them were Edward V (Richard's nephew.) Oh, and Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's older brother.
Richard, Duke of York, Edward IV
Edward V, Arthur, Prince of Wales
At this point we were at a loss as to what to do next, so we went through the maps and decided on a visit to Croft Castle.
Croft Castle
It's a much more modern building than most we visited. Most of it is from its reconstruction after being reduced to a shell during the Civil War (amazing how what Henry VIII managed to leave standing, Cromwell destroyed.) But right next to it was the small Church of St Michael and All Angels, dating from the 14th century. Inside was the elaborate monument to Sir Richard Croft (d.1509.) The Ricardian connection? Sir Richard fought for the Yorkist side at the nearby battle of Mortimer's Cross, which established Edward IV as king. Richard's wife, Eleanor, served as governess to the misnamed 'Princes in the Tower.', Somehow, Richard managed to survive the Tudor massacre of anyone even remotely connected to the last of the Plantagenets.
The Tomb of Sir Richard Croft
June 26 - Worcester Cathedral, Tudor House and Greyfriars
Our last day in Worcester would be spent in Worcester. And since there was no castle, we began at the cathedral.
Worcester Cathedral
Worcester seems to be a small town, but must have been fairly important at one time because the cathedral holds the tombs of both King John and Prince Arthur.
King John's Tomb
Prince Arthur's Chantry
I'd wanted to climb to the top of the tower as I had in York Minster on my last visit, but I'd been forced to remove one contact lens and it was throwing off my depth perception. Going up wouldn't have been a problem—coming down might have been. Instead, we took a short stroll through the Cloister garden and cemetery. As they all tend to be, this one was quite beautiful.
Cloister garden at Worcester Cathedral
After that, we took a stroll by the River Severn before heading for the area of the town that still holds part of its Medieval roots. We visited the Tudor House first. Built circa 1575, it's really more of a museum, with artifacts dating from the time of the Tudors up through WWII. More to my liking was Greyfriars. Not actually part of the monastery, the house was built about 1480. The monastery itself was destroyed by Henry VIII.
Going through the house, traveling from room to room, is like traveling through time. Its Medieval beginnings are easily spotted at its entrance, the porch being distinctly 15th century in style and carving, while the staircase is an early 17th century alteration. It's an interesting and beautiful place. Unfortunately, picture taking was not allowed. But here's one of its lovely garden.
The garden at Greyfriar's
That night, Anne treated us all to dinner at The Talbot. The restaurant, a 14th century Coaching Inn, sits by the River Teme. While we waited for our table, we sat outside and enjoyed the view. I took a snapshot to remember my time there with Anne's brother's lovely family.
At the Talbot. Left to right-Neal and Andrea's daughter, Imogen, Anne's brother, Neal, Anne, and Neal's wife Andrea.
June 27 - Skipton Castle
After a round of goodbyes, Anne and I left for our next destination—Middleham!
Because of the distance involved, we planned a stopover at Skipton Castle. It's perfectly preserved and has survived virtually unaltered since its last modernization more than 300 years ago.
Skipton Castle
Built in 1314 by Robert Clifford, it remains in the family's possession to this day. Below, the arms of John Clifford (d 1461), known as 'the Butcher,' because of his savagery in battle, over the outer gate. The beasts supporting the shield are wyverns—half dragon, half sea serpent.
He killed the Duke of York (Richard III's father,) and his son, Edmund, to avenge the death of his own father. He himself would be killed at the Battle of Towton.
Skipton Castle entrance
Leaving the castle, we continued our journey to Middleham.
This is always the high point of my visit. As corny as it may sound, it's like coming home. I probably know every nook and cranny of the castle, and my spending hours within the massive ruins is not unheard of.
But first, there was a happy reunion with Kate, another K/Ser and fellow Ricardian. Since it was already getting on in the day, after we checked into the Priory, a bed and breakfast across the street from Middleham Castle, we decided to wait to explore the castle until we could do it justice, yet we couldn't help taking a stroll along the dirt road that runs along its missing east wall.
Kate and I beside Middleham Castle's wall
June 28 - Richmond Castle, Easby Abbey and Raby Castle
With three places to visit, we started out right after breakfast, reaching Richmond by late morning. Richmond turned out to be full of winding streets, many of which lay at a 45º angle. After driving around for a bit, we finally managed to find the castle.
Richmond Castle
Me sitting along the castle wall with the Keep in the background
Richmond was built soon after the Norman Conquest but its foundation remains obscure. Though part of Richard's holdings, the castle's last repairs had been in 1294. By 1538 it was entirely derelict. Yet enough was still standing for the castle to be used as the headquarters for the North York Militia in 1854. During this time, a group of cells were created out of a storage range beside the gate. These cells were later used to house a number of conscientious objectors during WWI.
About a mile downstream from Richmond Castle is Easby Abbey or, as it is also known, the Premonstratensian Abbey of St Agatha at Easby.
Easby Abbey
The Abbey was founded and built in 1152, though a religious community probably already existed there. The year of its suppression is unknown but it's thought it was surrendered to the Crown in 1536 after the people of Richmond joined in the Pilgrimage of Grace, the most serious popular rebellion of Henry VIII's reign. At that time the Abbey was destroyed and the monks imprisoned.
It's a quiet and secluded site, a good place for a contemplative stroll.
Anne in the Refectory
We took a few minutes to tour the small church nearby before departing. Our last stop of the day was at Raby Castle.
Raby Castle
My main interest in the place is that it was the birthplace of Richard's mother, Cecily Neville, known as 'the Rose of Raby.' Unfortunately most of it is decorated in the overblown fashion of the Victorians, and little remains of earlier times. One wall in the Baron's Hall and the kitchen are the only two places where its Medieval past can be seen. Photo taking was not allowed, but I did manage to find this on the internet.
Baron's Hall
June 29 - St Mary and Alkelda: Collegiate Church of Richard III, Rievaulx Abbey and Middleham Castle
Finally, today was the day we'd set aside to explore Middleham. We began at St Mary's. While still Duke of Gloucester, Richard founded and incorporated a college here for a Dean and six secular priests.
Collegiate Church of Richard III
It's a small church, but it wears its age well. Within is a window that was dedicated to Richard's memory in 1934 by the Richard III Society. The figures at the bottom are of Richard and his son on the left, Anne Neville, his wife, on the right.
Richard III Window
With the castle not yet open, we decided to visit Rievaulx Abbey.
Rievaulx Abbey
To say this place was beautiful would be an understatement. Perhaps because of the way its situated, it overwhelms, suddenly appears at your approach, a majestic jewel hidden away in the North York Moors.
Though much of the Abbey is in ruins, the eastern parts of the church stand to almost their full height as a breathtaking reminder of Rievaulx's monastic past.
Looking east toward the Presbytery
And then it was back to Middleham and the Castle.
Statue of Richard at Middleham Castle
I probably have more pictures of this place than you could imagine. Every time I go there's something that draws my eye, no matter that I've seen it so many times before. But best for me is climbing up to the top of the Keep and looking down into the place Richard loved best.
The view of the castle grounds from the top of the Keep
So, while I skulked around, taking pictures and absorbing the atmosphere of the place, Anne and Kate found a nice place to sit and read.
Anne and Kate wait for Gilda
June 30 - Fountain Abbey, Jervaulx Abbey and William's Hill
Unfortunately, Kate had to leave us this morning. So after a sad farewell, Anne and I carried on alone. Our first stop, Fountains Abbey.
Fountains Abbey
Though we'd been told this place was even more awe inspiring than Rievaulx, Anne and I agreed that that wasn't the case. Again, perhaps it was the setting; it was difficult to encompass the entire place in one view because quite a bit of it is still standing. Or maybe because it was quite a bit more crowded. In either case, while lovely, it wasn't the experience of Rievaulx. One very cute item: a group of school children, they and their teachers dressed as monks.
'Monks' at Fountains Abbey
Leaving Fountains Abbey, we next drove to Jerveaux Abbey. It's a small Abbey, one of only a few privately-owned Cisterian Abbeys in Britain. Unfortunately, it shows. There's very little left, and what's there is slowly being devoured by the vegetation.
Remains of the Monks' Infirmary at Jerveaux Abbey
Once back in Middleham, while Anne retired to our room to read, I took another look around the Castle (I told you I was obsessed.) When I returned, we went to dinner and then decided on a walk before turning in.
Of course, the walk had to be alongside Middleham Castle. But this time we kept going and finally managed to find the correct path to William's Hill.
William's Hill
William's Hill is the site of the original mote-and-bailey castle built by Alan Rufus, nephew to William the Conqueror. It was replaced in 1190 by the building of Middleham Castle.
On to Week Two
(not dial-up friendly)
June 22nd - The beginning
It was the trip that almost wasn't. I've always made a habit of scheduling connecting flights at least three hours apart. I'd much rather have to spend extra time at an airport than worry about missing a flight. So when my flight from Grand Rapids to Chicago was cancelled and I was rebooked on a later flight, one only two hours before my flight to London, I wasn't too concerned. Two hours should be enough, right?
It would have been. But sitting at my gate at the GR airport, I looked up and noticed that my flight out was now marked as 40 minutes late. There was no way I could have got from one terminal to another, while having to pass through security again, in a little over one hour. Luckily, the woman at the counter was willing to listen to my problem and managed to get me on a flight leaving in five minutes.
Good thing, too, because, arriving in Chicago, I wasn't even sure what terminal to go to next. My ticket had said terminal 5, but the flight attendant had said terminal 3. I took a chance with 5 and made my plane in plenty of time, even with the security line being quite long. The mix-up turned out to be because, not being on my original flight out of GR, the one I did take was filled with people going to London via Northwest, not BA.
June 23rd - Off to Worcester
Anyway, the flight was smooth, the food was decent and I watched two movies I'd been meaning to see. At 7AM London time we touched down at Heathrow. I passed through Immigrations and customs to find Anne, my friend and fellow K/Ser, waiting.
Since we would be borrowing her parents' car, hers being in the shop, we took a train to Paddington Station (where, of course, I bought a Paddington bear,) then changed over to one going to Worcester. We were picked up at the station by Anne's brother Neal (who had brought his parents' car over to his house.) Neal's home is at the outskirts of Worcester, a simply lovely old manor house converted into three dwellings.
After settling in, we took Neal's dog, Nellie, for a walk out to a horse pasture. I was missing my two already and having a dog around, at least for a few days, helped a lot.
Nellie waits at the horse pasture gate
I'd picked Worcester because it seemed to be centrally located between Sudely Castle, Tewkesbury Abbey and Ludlow Castle. That it just happened to be where Anne's brother lives was a happy coincidence.
June 24th - Sudely Castle and Tewkesbury Abbey
Our first day out began with a visit to Sudely Castle. It took awhile to get there as we decided to use Anne's GPS, not realizing until a half hour later that it was taking us to London (Anne had accidentally set it for home.) But we eventually figured it out and managed to find our way to the castle.
Sudely Castle
Sudely is best known as the home of Catherine Parr after Henry VIII's death and they had the costumes there from "The Tudors" of Henry and all his wives in the part of the castle that's open to the public (part is still a residence.) But my interest was more in the ruins of the Banqueting Hall, built during Richard III's reign.
The Banqueting Hall at Sudely Castle
Richard had held the castle for nine years as Duke of Gloucester, using it as his base during the battle of Tewkesbury but later traded it to his brother, Edward IV, for Richmond Castle, perhaps because Richmond was closer to his northern estates. In any event, it would revert to him when he took the throne after his brother's death.
Behind the castle is St Mary's Church, Catherine Parr's burial place. She died giving birth to a daughter, a year and a half after Henry's death. Her husband, Thomas Seymour, would eventually lose his head when he tried to force the marriage of Edward V to Lady Jane Grey. Nothing is known of his and Catherine's daughter's fate.
Catherine Parr's tomb at St Mary's Church
From there, we proceeded to Tewkesbury Abbey.
Tewkesbury Abbey
It really is a beautiful place. And, unlike so many other places I saw, it's all still complete. George of Clarence (Richard III's older brother,) and his wife are buried there. "False, fleeting, perjur'd Clarence," is said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey after being found guiltly of treason against his older brother, Edward IV.
June 25 - Ludlow Castle, St Lawrence's Church and Croft Castle
The next day saw us on our way to Ludlow Castle.
Anne in front of the Keep at Ludlow Castle
I think as far as I'm concerned Ludlow is cursed. The first time I was there (two years ago,) we managed to get there only half hour before it was to close. This time, they had a production of "The Tempest" set up. While you could walk by most of the different parts of the castle, the tents set up for dressing rooms, laundry rooms, lights, etc, not to mention the large and obtrusive stage, pretty much killed the mood, destroying the castle's atmosphere. Ah well, maybe next time.
Still, it's a lovely place, with quite a bit of it still standing. Because our time there was shorter than it would have normally been, we had time to check out the town. Quaint, with much of its older part still standing, it makes for a great tourist stop. We walked through the outdoor selling fare that was set up outside the castle, then perused several shops as we made our way through the center of town. Eventually, we found ourselves at the Parish Church of St Lawrence. In its gorgeous west window I found a Ricardian connection. At the bottom were the figures of Richard, Duke of York (Richard's father,) and Edward IV (Richard's brother.) Across from them were Edward V (Richard's nephew.) Oh, and Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's older brother.
Richard, Duke of York, Edward IV
Edward V, Arthur, Prince of Wales
At this point we were at a loss as to what to do next, so we went through the maps and decided on a visit to Croft Castle.
Croft Castle
It's a much more modern building than most we visited. Most of it is from its reconstruction after being reduced to a shell during the Civil War (amazing how what Henry VIII managed to leave standing, Cromwell destroyed.) But right next to it was the small Church of St Michael and All Angels, dating from the 14th century. Inside was the elaborate monument to Sir Richard Croft (d.1509.) The Ricardian connection? Sir Richard fought for the Yorkist side at the nearby battle of Mortimer's Cross, which established Edward IV as king. Richard's wife, Eleanor, served as governess to the misnamed 'Princes in the Tower.', Somehow, Richard managed to survive the Tudor massacre of anyone even remotely connected to the last of the Plantagenets.
The Tomb of Sir Richard Croft
June 26 - Worcester Cathedral, Tudor House and Greyfriars
Our last day in Worcester would be spent in Worcester. And since there was no castle, we began at the cathedral.
Worcester Cathedral
Worcester seems to be a small town, but must have been fairly important at one time because the cathedral holds the tombs of both King John and Prince Arthur.
King John's Tomb
Prince Arthur's Chantry
I'd wanted to climb to the top of the tower as I had in York Minster on my last visit, but I'd been forced to remove one contact lens and it was throwing off my depth perception. Going up wouldn't have been a problem—coming down might have been. Instead, we took a short stroll through the Cloister garden and cemetery. As they all tend to be, this one was quite beautiful.
Cloister garden at Worcester Cathedral
After that, we took a stroll by the River Severn before heading for the area of the town that still holds part of its Medieval roots. We visited the Tudor House first. Built circa 1575, it's really more of a museum, with artifacts dating from the time of the Tudors up through WWII. More to my liking was Greyfriars. Not actually part of the monastery, the house was built about 1480. The monastery itself was destroyed by Henry VIII.
Going through the house, traveling from room to room, is like traveling through time. Its Medieval beginnings are easily spotted at its entrance, the porch being distinctly 15th century in style and carving, while the staircase is an early 17th century alteration. It's an interesting and beautiful place. Unfortunately, picture taking was not allowed. But here's one of its lovely garden.
The garden at Greyfriar's
That night, Anne treated us all to dinner at The Talbot. The restaurant, a 14th century Coaching Inn, sits by the River Teme. While we waited for our table, we sat outside and enjoyed the view. I took a snapshot to remember my time there with Anne's brother's lovely family.
At the Talbot. Left to right-Neal and Andrea's daughter, Imogen, Anne's brother, Neal, Anne, and Neal's wife Andrea.
June 27 - Skipton Castle
After a round of goodbyes, Anne and I left for our next destination—Middleham!
Because of the distance involved, we planned a stopover at Skipton Castle. It's perfectly preserved and has survived virtually unaltered since its last modernization more than 300 years ago.
Skipton Castle
Built in 1314 by Robert Clifford, it remains in the family's possession to this day. Below, the arms of John Clifford (d 1461), known as 'the Butcher,' because of his savagery in battle, over the outer gate. The beasts supporting the shield are wyverns—half dragon, half sea serpent.
He killed the Duke of York (Richard III's father,) and his son, Edmund, to avenge the death of his own father. He himself would be killed at the Battle of Towton.
Skipton Castle entrance
Leaving the castle, we continued our journey to Middleham.
This is always the high point of my visit. As corny as it may sound, it's like coming home. I probably know every nook and cranny of the castle, and my spending hours within the massive ruins is not unheard of.
But first, there was a happy reunion with Kate, another K/Ser and fellow Ricardian. Since it was already getting on in the day, after we checked into the Priory, a bed and breakfast across the street from Middleham Castle, we decided to wait to explore the castle until we could do it justice, yet we couldn't help taking a stroll along the dirt road that runs along its missing east wall.
Kate and I beside Middleham Castle's wall
June 28 - Richmond Castle, Easby Abbey and Raby Castle
With three places to visit, we started out right after breakfast, reaching Richmond by late morning. Richmond turned out to be full of winding streets, many of which lay at a 45º angle. After driving around for a bit, we finally managed to find the castle.
Richmond Castle
Me sitting along the castle wall with the Keep in the background
Richmond was built soon after the Norman Conquest but its foundation remains obscure. Though part of Richard's holdings, the castle's last repairs had been in 1294. By 1538 it was entirely derelict. Yet enough was still standing for the castle to be used as the headquarters for the North York Militia in 1854. During this time, a group of cells were created out of a storage range beside the gate. These cells were later used to house a number of conscientious objectors during WWI.
About a mile downstream from Richmond Castle is Easby Abbey or, as it is also known, the Premonstratensian Abbey of St Agatha at Easby.
Easby Abbey
The Abbey was founded and built in 1152, though a religious community probably already existed there. The year of its suppression is unknown but it's thought it was surrendered to the Crown in 1536 after the people of Richmond joined in the Pilgrimage of Grace, the most serious popular rebellion of Henry VIII's reign. At that time the Abbey was destroyed and the monks imprisoned.
It's a quiet and secluded site, a good place for a contemplative stroll.
Anne in the Refectory
We took a few minutes to tour the small church nearby before departing. Our last stop of the day was at Raby Castle.
Raby Castle
My main interest in the place is that it was the birthplace of Richard's mother, Cecily Neville, known as 'the Rose of Raby.' Unfortunately most of it is decorated in the overblown fashion of the Victorians, and little remains of earlier times. One wall in the Baron's Hall and the kitchen are the only two places where its Medieval past can be seen. Photo taking was not allowed, but I did manage to find this on the internet.
Baron's Hall
June 29 - St Mary and Alkelda: Collegiate Church of Richard III, Rievaulx Abbey and Middleham Castle
Finally, today was the day we'd set aside to explore Middleham. We began at St Mary's. While still Duke of Gloucester, Richard founded and incorporated a college here for a Dean and six secular priests.
Collegiate Church of Richard III
It's a small church, but it wears its age well. Within is a window that was dedicated to Richard's memory in 1934 by the Richard III Society. The figures at the bottom are of Richard and his son on the left, Anne Neville, his wife, on the right.
Richard III Window
With the castle not yet open, we decided to visit Rievaulx Abbey.
Rievaulx Abbey
To say this place was beautiful would be an understatement. Perhaps because of the way its situated, it overwhelms, suddenly appears at your approach, a majestic jewel hidden away in the North York Moors.
Though much of the Abbey is in ruins, the eastern parts of the church stand to almost their full height as a breathtaking reminder of Rievaulx's monastic past.
Looking east toward the Presbytery
And then it was back to Middleham and the Castle.
Statue of Richard at Middleham Castle
I probably have more pictures of this place than you could imagine. Every time I go there's something that draws my eye, no matter that I've seen it so many times before. But best for me is climbing up to the top of the Keep and looking down into the place Richard loved best.
The view of the castle grounds from the top of the Keep
So, while I skulked around, taking pictures and absorbing the atmosphere of the place, Anne and Kate found a nice place to sit and read.
Anne and Kate wait for Gilda
June 30 - Fountain Abbey, Jervaulx Abbey and William's Hill
Unfortunately, Kate had to leave us this morning. So after a sad farewell, Anne and I carried on alone. Our first stop, Fountains Abbey.
Fountains Abbey
Though we'd been told this place was even more awe inspiring than Rievaulx, Anne and I agreed that that wasn't the case. Again, perhaps it was the setting; it was difficult to encompass the entire place in one view because quite a bit of it is still standing. Or maybe because it was quite a bit more crowded. In either case, while lovely, it wasn't the experience of Rievaulx. One very cute item: a group of school children, they and their teachers dressed as monks.
'Monks' at Fountains Abbey
Leaving Fountains Abbey, we next drove to Jerveaux Abbey. It's a small Abbey, one of only a few privately-owned Cisterian Abbeys in Britain. Unfortunately, it shows. There's very little left, and what's there is slowly being devoured by the vegetation.
Remains of the Monks' Infirmary at Jerveaux Abbey
Once back in Middleham, while Anne retired to our room to read, I took another look around the Castle (I told you I was obsessed.) When I returned, we went to dinner and then decided on a walk before turning in.
Of course, the walk had to be alongside Middleham Castle. But this time we kept going and finally managed to find the correct path to William's Hill.
William's Hill
William's Hill is the site of the original mote-and-bailey castle built by Alan Rufus, nephew to William the Conqueror. It was replaced in 1190 by the building of Middleham Castle.
On to Week Two
