Catching Up
Jul. 28th, 2006 07:06 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
gilda_eliseI'm back! And it only took three days to catch up on all my e-mails, LJ and group posts, not to mention unpacking everything I lugged back. If there's a book about Richard III out there I don't now have, I'm not sure I want to hear about it. :-)
Quickly scanned through most of my flist posts, finding some great new stories on![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-community.gif)
summer_of_78 and ![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
nellhowell's wonderful new Pros lists. Great job, Nell!
Also, a belated Happy Birthday! toelynross and agentxpndble. I hope you both had a wonderful time on your special day.
Behind the cut is my "report" from abroad, about the best two weeks I've ever had. I'm already scheming on how to get back!
July 9th
Baltimore to London
My first time in something other than Southwest’s cattle car. A bonus was us being bumped up to nicer accomodations. Wider seats and better food...what more could you ask for?
July 10
Arrive in London - First stop was Anne’s house, after the new experience of getting around by the Tube. I liked the ride but lugging around my bags from platform to platform, often by stairs, was a bit exhilarating! After stashing my luggage in the lovely room Anne had set up for me, it was off again to see the sights. Since my passion for Richard III was one of the major reasons for my wanting to see England, he figured largely.
The Eye was first, a huge ferris wheel set in the center of London. From the top you can make out several well-known sites; it’s a gorgeous view. Then it was off to the National Portrait Gallery. I wanted to the see the picture of Richard III they have there but there were plenty more portraits, starting from the time of the Tudors to the present. We had a bit of excitement when they locked us all in when someone discovered a package left by the front door of the building! But it turned out to be nothing and after about twenty minutes they let us go. Once home, I had the required fish and chips for dinner.
July 11
Next morning we returned to central London and Westminster Abbey. It’s truly breathtaking. That it could be built without any of our modern contrivances make it even more remarkable. Pictures weren’t allowed and people made their way around in hushed tones. It was wonderful. There were many moments of contemplation as we moved past the tombs of kings I’d only read about. Anne Neville, Richard III’s wife, also rests there, along with the bones some believe to be those of the missing Princes of the Tower.
The Churchill Museum was next. Actually, it’s the underground bunker the government was run from during the War years. Since when the War ended they basically left, locking it up behind them, the place is almost exactly as it was in 1945.
After that it was on to the British Museum. It’s a huge place, but we mainly stayed with the Medieval period displays.
July 12
First stop was the Tower of London and the “Bloody Tower” where the two princes were supposedly done away with. Also where Sir Walter Raleigh spent thirteen years in captivity. We also saw Traitor’s Gate and the Crown Jewels. And the ravens are still there, so England is still safe!
Then it was off to the London Dungeon, which wasn’t exactly what I thought it would be but it was a lot of fun. More spook house than anything, there were a few scary moments!
July 13
Our last day in London and we first made our way to the Museum of London. It has some fascinating exhibits of life in London from prehistoric times up to today. But time only allowed seeing the ones up to Medieval times before leaving for the Scarsdale Tavern, a picturesque pub used in an episode of “The Professionals.” Hasn’t changed much at all in the intervening twenty years. I could easily see Bodie and Doyle enjoying a bite of lunch and a drink or two. We had planned on seeing the Kensington Gardens next, but after a filling lunch and two glasses of lager for me and cider for Anne, we decided to forego its pleasures and waited out the time at the pub until it was time to catch the train for our trip north.
I loved the train ride, even if I did end up falling asleep, lol. It took us to Peterborough, where we were picked up by Kate Cogan (Gallimaufry.) The three of us stayed at the Angel and Royal Hotel in Grantham, Where King Richard III signed the death warrant of the Duke of Buckingham in 1483. To say I was excited over that fact is putting it mildly. It was my first experience in walking where he had walked and I revelled in it. It’s a gorgeous place, and Britain’s oldest inn. Parts of it date from 1203.
July 14
We were up early to begin the drive to Middleham Castle, about four hours away, home to Richard III as boy and man. I don’t think I’ve ever been more affected by a place. To know it was the place he loved the most, the place he lived most of his life...I can’t begin to explain what I felt. The castle is only a ruin, yet its steeped in the atmosphere of his time.
When Anne finally managed to drag me and Kate (another Ricardian) away, we walked to the Castle Keep tea room, where I discovered the glory of cream teas. I would manage to eat about half a dozen of them in the following week!
That evening, we had dinner in the King’s Dining Room. It’s the room where Richard signed Buckingham’s death warrant. The room is beautiful, with much of the original stone walls exposed.
July 15
Bosworth Field, where Richard III died at the battle of Market Bosworth while fighting for his crown against the usurper Henry Tudor, was our destination for this day. We walked along the battle grounds, amazed at how close the two warring camps had been placed. We saw where Richard was supposed to have stopped for water and, more sobering, the large slab of stone set up where Richard is supposed to have died. We stayed a few hours and then drove to St. James Church, where Richard went to pray before the battle.
July 16
Our last day at the inn and our last day with Kate. We set off for Croyland Abbey, or Crowland as it is now spelled. Much of the Abbey was destroyed during the Dissolution, but enough remains so you can imagine what a magnificent building it must once have been. There’s even less of Fotheringhay, birthplace of Richard III. Only a pile of stones mark where the castle once stood. We also visited the old parish church, where Richard’s parents are buried.
After that, Kate drove us back to Grantham, where Anne and I caught the train back to London.
July 17
Next morning we packed our bags into Anne’s car and took off for another week of sight seeing. It was another early start as we made our way to Canterbury Cathedral. Another awesome place and the resting place of the Black Prince (so called because of the black armor he wore.) While we were there, they had a ceremony to honor those who died in all wars.
From there we drove to Arundel and checked into a B&B. The castle was closed by the time we got there, so we walked around the town and down to the river where we discovered more ruins along its bank.
July 18
The next morning we went to Arundel Castle. We first walked through the Fitzalan Chapel, where many of the Dukes of Norfolk and Earls of Arundel are buried. I found the Norman keep the most interesting part of the castle, though.
We had already checked out before we saw the castle, so once we were done there we left for Woodstock in the Cotswolds. We stayed at Gorselands Hall, a wonderful little B&B just outside the town. After checking in, we took a walk down the road to the remains of a Roman villa. I was suprised at its size. Even at the outskirts of the Empire, Romans seem to have managed to live the good life.
After walking back to the B&B, we drove into town for dinner. Next to the car park was an old Norman church. It was closed, but we were able to walk around the grounds.
July 19
Next morning we were off to Bleinham Palace, ancestral home to Winston Churchill. The family still lives there but much of it is open to the public. The grounds are particularly beautiful.
That afternoon we drove to Broadway and the Olive Branch Guest House, where we boiled our brains in the top floor room. With only one window, the cool night air didn’t stand a chance against the heat that had built up during the day. We did manage to beat the heat for awhile by having dinner at a air conditioned restaurant. We stayed as long as we could but eventually we had to return to our room where Anne and I got slightly hysterical at one point, as we tried to sleep in the warm and rather stuffy room. I finally went into the bathroom and wet down my tank top. That helped a lot.
July 20
I hadn’t planned anything for this day but we found some places to visit by looking over the pamphlets the B&B had. After checking out of the Olive Branch, we headed for Cirencester and the Corinium Museum. It tracks the history of what was Roman Britain’s second largest city. As an aside, we visted the parish church along the way, one of the largest in the country. Inside is housed the Boleyn cup, made for Anne Boleyn in 1535. We had already left and were enjoying some refreshments before starting on our way again, when Anne noticed something in the brochure we’d picked up at the church. It seemed in one of the side chapels, the stain glass window included the head of the Duke of York wearing a gold coronet. It’s all that remains of the effigy of Richard III’s father. While Anne went to buy more water and a couple of bottles of wine, I hurried back to the church to take more pictures.
From there, we headed to Malmesbury and the Abbey House Gardens. It’s situated next to the remains of the original church and was built and run by the “Naked Gardeners.” Anne got a first hand introduction to them when her sunglasses fell into the fish pond and an elderly man wearing only a thong scooped them out for her. His wife, wearing a crocheted thong bathing suit, stood nearby.
After leaving there, we walked over to the Malmesbury Abbey. Founded in the 7th century, Athelstan, the first king of all England, is buried there.
Then it was time to head to Stratford-Upon-Avon and Liz’s. We arrived around six or so, so only managed a few hours together before it was time for bed since Liz had to work the next morning.
July 21
Liz was already gone when Anne and I got up. We managed toast and coffee/tea before leaving for Warwick Castle.
Kate had warned us about the place but, unfortunately, we didn’t listen. It had its nice points but basically it’s a tourist trap. “History lite,” as Anne calls it. Any historical significance it once had has been been trowled over with a thick layer of commercialism. We managed to find a few sights of interest but cut the tour short and left for Kenilworth.
Much better. Kenilworth Castle is a ruin, though more is left of it than Middleham. The original Norman keep was built in the 1120, with John of Gaunt adding a great hall in the 1370’s. Finally, the Earl of Leicester would add accommodations for Elizabeth I in 1571. A truly wonderful place.
Finally, we headed for Leicester and Closet Con. The next two days were filled with panels, films, and just plain, ol’ talk about K/S, Pros and any other fandom you might want to converse on. Being at the point where I rarely find a zine I don’t already have, I went away empty-handed but I did finally get to meet Christine and lots of other fans I’d only known from their posts on KSC. Also got to spend some time will Killa, who gave two absolutely fantastic presentations, one on vids, the other on fans reinventing Romance and Heroic Myth in their own image.
July 23
Last day of the con and 4pm rolled around before I knew it. Though we prepared for the worse (and actually got caught in a back-up caused by an accident,) we made good time and reached London around seven. I spent most of the night trying to fit everything I’d bought into my straining suitcases. Somehow, I managed. :-)
July 24
I woke feeling like I was ready to go home, yet not really wanting to leave. Nevertheless, I boarded the taxi for the forty-five minute trip to Heathrow. After a long but uneventful flight, I was home.
It was a wonderful two weeks and I’m already planning my return. I could never thank Anne and Kate enough for the time and expense both put into making me feel welcome and showing off their magnificent country. It’s a trip I’ll remember with great happiness the rest of my life.
Quickly scanned through most of my flist posts, finding some great new stories on
summer_of_78 and nellhowell's wonderful new Pros lists. Great job, Nell!Also, a belated Happy Birthday! to
elynross and agentxpndble. I hope you both had a wonderful time on your special day.Behind the cut is my "report" from abroad, about the best two weeks I've ever had. I'm already scheming on how to get back!
July 9th
Baltimore to London
My first time in something other than Southwest’s cattle car. A bonus was us being bumped up to nicer accomodations. Wider seats and better food...what more could you ask for?
July 10
Arrive in London - First stop was Anne’s house, after the new experience of getting around by the Tube. I liked the ride but lugging around my bags from platform to platform, often by stairs, was a bit exhilarating! After stashing my luggage in the lovely room Anne had set up for me, it was off again to see the sights. Since my passion for Richard III was one of the major reasons for my wanting to see England, he figured largely.
The Eye was first, a huge ferris wheel set in the center of London. From the top you can make out several well-known sites; it’s a gorgeous view. Then it was off to the National Portrait Gallery. I wanted to the see the picture of Richard III they have there but there were plenty more portraits, starting from the time of the Tudors to the present. We had a bit of excitement when they locked us all in when someone discovered a package left by the front door of the building! But it turned out to be nothing and after about twenty minutes they let us go. Once home, I had the required fish and chips for dinner.
July 11
Next morning we returned to central London and Westminster Abbey. It’s truly breathtaking. That it could be built without any of our modern contrivances make it even more remarkable. Pictures weren’t allowed and people made their way around in hushed tones. It was wonderful. There were many moments of contemplation as we moved past the tombs of kings I’d only read about. Anne Neville, Richard III’s wife, also rests there, along with the bones some believe to be those of the missing Princes of the Tower.
The Churchill Museum was next. Actually, it’s the underground bunker the government was run from during the War years. Since when the War ended they basically left, locking it up behind them, the place is almost exactly as it was in 1945.
After that it was on to the British Museum. It’s a huge place, but we mainly stayed with the Medieval period displays.
July 12
First stop was the Tower of London and the “Bloody Tower” where the two princes were supposedly done away with. Also where Sir Walter Raleigh spent thirteen years in captivity. We also saw Traitor’s Gate and the Crown Jewels. And the ravens are still there, so England is still safe!
Then it was off to the London Dungeon, which wasn’t exactly what I thought it would be but it was a lot of fun. More spook house than anything, there were a few scary moments!
July 13
Our last day in London and we first made our way to the Museum of London. It has some fascinating exhibits of life in London from prehistoric times up to today. But time only allowed seeing the ones up to Medieval times before leaving for the Scarsdale Tavern, a picturesque pub used in an episode of “The Professionals.” Hasn’t changed much at all in the intervening twenty years. I could easily see Bodie and Doyle enjoying a bite of lunch and a drink or two. We had planned on seeing the Kensington Gardens next, but after a filling lunch and two glasses of lager for me and cider for Anne, we decided to forego its pleasures and waited out the time at the pub until it was time to catch the train for our trip north.
I loved the train ride, even if I did end up falling asleep, lol. It took us to Peterborough, where we were picked up by Kate Cogan (Gallimaufry.) The three of us stayed at the Angel and Royal Hotel in Grantham, Where King Richard III signed the death warrant of the Duke of Buckingham in 1483. To say I was excited over that fact is putting it mildly. It was my first experience in walking where he had walked and I revelled in it. It’s a gorgeous place, and Britain’s oldest inn. Parts of it date from 1203.
July 14
We were up early to begin the drive to Middleham Castle, about four hours away, home to Richard III as boy and man. I don’t think I’ve ever been more affected by a place. To know it was the place he loved the most, the place he lived most of his life...I can’t begin to explain what I felt. The castle is only a ruin, yet its steeped in the atmosphere of his time.
When Anne finally managed to drag me and Kate (another Ricardian) away, we walked to the Castle Keep tea room, where I discovered the glory of cream teas. I would manage to eat about half a dozen of them in the following week!
That evening, we had dinner in the King’s Dining Room. It’s the room where Richard signed Buckingham’s death warrant. The room is beautiful, with much of the original stone walls exposed.
July 15
Bosworth Field, where Richard III died at the battle of Market Bosworth while fighting for his crown against the usurper Henry Tudor, was our destination for this day. We walked along the battle grounds, amazed at how close the two warring camps had been placed. We saw where Richard was supposed to have stopped for water and, more sobering, the large slab of stone set up where Richard is supposed to have died. We stayed a few hours and then drove to St. James Church, where Richard went to pray before the battle.
July 16
Our last day at the inn and our last day with Kate. We set off for Croyland Abbey, or Crowland as it is now spelled. Much of the Abbey was destroyed during the Dissolution, but enough remains so you can imagine what a magnificent building it must once have been. There’s even less of Fotheringhay, birthplace of Richard III. Only a pile of stones mark where the castle once stood. We also visited the old parish church, where Richard’s parents are buried.
After that, Kate drove us back to Grantham, where Anne and I caught the train back to London.
July 17
Next morning we packed our bags into Anne’s car and took off for another week of sight seeing. It was another early start as we made our way to Canterbury Cathedral. Another awesome place and the resting place of the Black Prince (so called because of the black armor he wore.) While we were there, they had a ceremony to honor those who died in all wars.
From there we drove to Arundel and checked into a B&B. The castle was closed by the time we got there, so we walked around the town and down to the river where we discovered more ruins along its bank.
July 18
The next morning we went to Arundel Castle. We first walked through the Fitzalan Chapel, where many of the Dukes of Norfolk and Earls of Arundel are buried. I found the Norman keep the most interesting part of the castle, though.
We had already checked out before we saw the castle, so once we were done there we left for Woodstock in the Cotswolds. We stayed at Gorselands Hall, a wonderful little B&B just outside the town. After checking in, we took a walk down the road to the remains of a Roman villa. I was suprised at its size. Even at the outskirts of the Empire, Romans seem to have managed to live the good life.
After walking back to the B&B, we drove into town for dinner. Next to the car park was an old Norman church. It was closed, but we were able to walk around the grounds.
July 19
Next morning we were off to Bleinham Palace, ancestral home to Winston Churchill. The family still lives there but much of it is open to the public. The grounds are particularly beautiful.
That afternoon we drove to Broadway and the Olive Branch Guest House, where we boiled our brains in the top floor room. With only one window, the cool night air didn’t stand a chance against the heat that had built up during the day. We did manage to beat the heat for awhile by having dinner at a air conditioned restaurant. We stayed as long as we could but eventually we had to return to our room where Anne and I got slightly hysterical at one point, as we tried to sleep in the warm and rather stuffy room. I finally went into the bathroom and wet down my tank top. That helped a lot.
July 20
I hadn’t planned anything for this day but we found some places to visit by looking over the pamphlets the B&B had. After checking out of the Olive Branch, we headed for Cirencester and the Corinium Museum. It tracks the history of what was Roman Britain’s second largest city. As an aside, we visted the parish church along the way, one of the largest in the country. Inside is housed the Boleyn cup, made for Anne Boleyn in 1535. We had already left and were enjoying some refreshments before starting on our way again, when Anne noticed something in the brochure we’d picked up at the church. It seemed in one of the side chapels, the stain glass window included the head of the Duke of York wearing a gold coronet. It’s all that remains of the effigy of Richard III’s father. While Anne went to buy more water and a couple of bottles of wine, I hurried back to the church to take more pictures.
From there, we headed to Malmesbury and the Abbey House Gardens. It’s situated next to the remains of the original church and was built and run by the “Naked Gardeners.” Anne got a first hand introduction to them when her sunglasses fell into the fish pond and an elderly man wearing only a thong scooped them out for her. His wife, wearing a crocheted thong bathing suit, stood nearby.
After leaving there, we walked over to the Malmesbury Abbey. Founded in the 7th century, Athelstan, the first king of all England, is buried there.
Then it was time to head to Stratford-Upon-Avon and Liz’s. We arrived around six or so, so only managed a few hours together before it was time for bed since Liz had to work the next morning.
July 21
Liz was already gone when Anne and I got up. We managed toast and coffee/tea before leaving for Warwick Castle.
Kate had warned us about the place but, unfortunately, we didn’t listen. It had its nice points but basically it’s a tourist trap. “History lite,” as Anne calls it. Any historical significance it once had has been been trowled over with a thick layer of commercialism. We managed to find a few sights of interest but cut the tour short and left for Kenilworth.
Much better. Kenilworth Castle is a ruin, though more is left of it than Middleham. The original Norman keep was built in the 1120, with John of Gaunt adding a great hall in the 1370’s. Finally, the Earl of Leicester would add accommodations for Elizabeth I in 1571. A truly wonderful place.
Finally, we headed for Leicester and Closet Con. The next two days were filled with panels, films, and just plain, ol’ talk about K/S, Pros and any other fandom you might want to converse on. Being at the point where I rarely find a zine I don’t already have, I went away empty-handed but I did finally get to meet Christine and lots of other fans I’d only known from their posts on KSC. Also got to spend some time will Killa, who gave two absolutely fantastic presentations, one on vids, the other on fans reinventing Romance and Heroic Myth in their own image.
July 23
Last day of the con and 4pm rolled around before I knew it. Though we prepared for the worse (and actually got caught in a back-up caused by an accident,) we made good time and reached London around seven. I spent most of the night trying to fit everything I’d bought into my straining suitcases. Somehow, I managed. :-)
July 24
I woke feeling like I was ready to go home, yet not really wanting to leave. Nevertheless, I boarded the taxi for the forty-five minute trip to Heathrow. After a long but uneventful flight, I was home.
It was a wonderful two weeks and I’m already planning my return. I could never thank Anne and Kate enough for the time and expense both put into making me feel welcome and showing off their magnificent country. It’s a trip I’ll remember with great happiness the rest of my life.
